4 Standout Designers from Graduate Fashion Week
4 Standout Designers from Graduate Fashion Week
Graduate Fashion Week 2024 was a kaleidoscope of creativity and innovation, taking over the Truman Brewery in Shoreditch with a showcase of the next generation of fashion innovators. Amidst the buzz of catwalk shows and exhibitions, designers like Lillie Westgate, Grace Jackson, Rujing Qian, and Hannah Bickers redefined sartorial storytelling. From Westgate’s homage to Norfolk’s shoemaking legacy to Jackson’s oceanic inspirations, Qian’s exploration of Southeast Asian societal themes, and Bickers’ nostalgic yet fresh take on London’s vintage styles, this year’s event proved that the future of fashion is as much about heritage as it is about pushing boundaries. So, let’s introduce them, as we get to know the inspirations behind their work.
Lillie Westgate’s collection at Graduate Fashion Week 2024 is a heartfelt homage to the shoemaking heritage of Norfolk and Norwich. Her graduate collection, titled “The Shoe Makers,” delves deep into the historical fabric of her hometown, merging past and present through a striking display of traditional workwear and modern design.
“The Shoemaker’s is a graduate collection centred around the rich trade and shoemaking history within Norfolk and Norwich,” says Westgate. “The collection is heavily inspired by traditional, minimalistic workwear mixed with the use of durable and timeless fabrics. The story portrayed through the collection imagines what a working family would have worn when making a living in shoe factories in the early to mid-1900s, intertwining classic silhouettes with a natural modernistic design aesthetic to tie the past and present together.”
This narrative is woven into every stitch and seam, capturing the essence of a bygone era while infusing it with contemporary relevance. Westgate’s aesthetic is a blend of utility and elegance, reflecting the practicality of early 1900s work attire while adding a touch of modern sophistication. The collection features robust fabrics in earthy tones and deep indigos, meticulously crafted into garments that evoke a sense of nostalgia. The classic silhouettes are brought to life with a natural modernistic design aesthetic, seamlessly tying the past and present together.
Westgate reflects on her inspiration, saying, “The collection holds nostalgic tones, reminiscing upon the never-forgotten history of our fine city, Norwich.” Accessories are not just embellishments but functional extensions of the outfits, blending form and function effortlessly. The compact leather pouches and utilitarian belts signal a blend of practicality and style, paying homage to the hardworking individuals of the past.
Grace Jackson, a rising star from Norwich University of the Arts, made waves at Graduate Fashion Week 2024 with her breathtaking collection that melds coastal inspirations with avant-garde fashion. Her designs are a vivid homage to the sea, capturing its mystique and beauty in every stitch and weave, transforming the runway into a serene shoreline bathed in creativity.
Jackson’s collection is a masterclass in texture and form, featuring intricately crocheted and knitted pieces that ripple like ocean waves. Her colour palette is a mesmerising blend of sea greens and deep blues, invoking the tranquil and tumultuous nature of the ocean. Each garment is an exploration of marine life, with elements that mimic the delicate intricacies of coral reefs and the fluidity of underwater currents.
By using eco-friendly materials and handcrafting techniques, Jackson weaves a narrative that celebrates the harmony between fashion and the natural world. With the seamless integration of accessories, such as the oversized yarn balls that add a whimsical touch and the delicate, bejeweled headpieces that glisten like sea spray.
Grace Jackson’s work is a testament to the power of inspiration and innovation. Her collection is a fresh breeze in the fashion world, offering a new perspective on sustainable luxury. By drawing from the natural beauty and rich history of Norfolk’s coastline, Jackson creates pieces that are timeless yet contemporary, rooted in tradition yet forward-thinking.
Ruining Qian’s collection at Graduate Fashion Week 2024 is a visceral journey through the complexities of self-discovery and empowerment. Her designs draw from the rich tapestry of Southeast Asian societal restrictions, using architectural motifs to symbolise the barriers women have faced. Qian’s work is a masterclass in translating profound narratives into wearable art, with each piece unravelling a story of transformation and resilience.
“My collection is about breaking restrictions of women in Southeast Asian society using visual inspirations of architecture as patterns because I think architecture represents restrictions as a lot of women were trapped inside in ancient times,” Qian explains. This thematic depth is woven into every garment, creating a visual dialogue that challenges and inspires.
Qian’s aesthetic is a bold fusion of structure and fluidity. She manipulates tulle and organza to create dynamic, jagged layers that evoke both beauty and confinement. Her use of colour transitions from the deepest blacks, symbolising restriction and the cage, to fiery reds and blacks, signifying consciousness awakening and rebirth in the flames. These vivid hues burst forth, capturing the raw energy of transformation.
As the collection unfolds, Qian’s pieces break free from traditional constraints, blossoming into floral silhouettes that symbolise hope and resurrection. The intricate detailing and flowing fabrics capture the essence of growth and renewal, as if flowers are pushing through the cracks of ancient walls, defying the architecture that once confined them.
Qian’s final statement is a stark reminder of reality. She reinterprets the restrictive patterns of her earlier designs in a palette of white, symbolising the persistent gaze and inequality women face. “The last look uses the same pattern of the first all-black look on a corset which brings the audience back to reality because after all the fighting and realisation, women are still living under the gaze and inequality in society,” Qian notes. This poignant conclusion to her collection underscores the ongoing struggle for equality.
Hannah Bickers’ collection at Graduate Fashion Week 2024 is a nostalgic tribute to the gritty yet vibrant style of 1970s and 80s London. Drawing heavily on the iconic imagery of Bob Mazzer, a photographer from Whitechapel, Bickers captures the essence of individuality and eclecticism that defined the era. Her designs are a seamless blend of thrifted, vintage, and casual aesthetics, creating a unique wardrobe that feels both retro and refreshingly contemporary.
The collection is a visual feast of retro vibes, bringing together a mix of styles that reflect the diverse and dynamic nature of London’s underground scene. Bickers notes, “Despite the mix of aesthetics, I want to create a collection that can be worn by all, regardless of personal style and aesthetic.” This inclusive approach shines through in her designs, which are both versatile and distinctive, catering to a wide range of fashion sensibilities.
Her models, clad in oversized trench coats, mesh tops, pinstripe vests, and relaxed-fit trousers, embody the effortless cool of London’s past. The use of muted tones and classic patterns, like pinstripes and plaids, gives the collection a timeless appeal, while contemporary elements keep it grounded in the present. Bickers’ attention to detail, from the perfectly rolled sleeves to the casual drape of a coat, showcases her ability to blend the old with the new seamlessly. One of the standout aspects of Bickers’ work is her commitment to sustainability. “Consumers are leaning towards second-hand clothing as not only a push towards a greener future but also a way to create a unique wardrobe,” she says. This mindset is central to her project, which emphasises the beauty of thrifted and vintage pieces. By repurposing and reimagining these garments, Bickers creates a collection that is not only stylish but also environmentally conscious.
