The Met Gala’s Historic Embrace of Black Fashion

The steps of the Metropolitan Museum of Art glittered last night as stars gathered for the 2025 Met Gala, draped in fabrics and tailoring that told stories far deeper than fashion. Under the theme “Superfine: Tailoring Black Style,” guests celebrated Black dandyism—an expression rooted not just in sartorial elegance but also in cultural defiance and rich historical significance.

The theme coincides with the Costume Institute’s spring exhibition, “Superfine: Tailoring Black Style,” which opens to the public on 10th May and runs until 26th October. Co-curated by Andrew Bolton and Dr Monica L. Miller, the exhibition draws inspiration from Miller’s seminal 2009 book, Slaves to Fashion: Black Dandyism and the Styling of Black Diasporic Identity. Structured around 12 thematic sections—including Ownership, Presence, Heritage, and Cool—the show traces the evolution of Black dandyism from the 18th century to the present, showcasing garments, artwork, and photographs that highlight the role of fashion in shaping Black diasporic identities.

In a significant milestone, the 2025 Met Gala raised a record-breaking $31 million for the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute—the highest amount in the event’s 77-year history. This achievement underscores the gala’s role not only as a premier fashion event but also as a vital fundraiser supporting the preservation and study of fashion history. At a time when diversity, equity, and inclusion initiatives face challenges, this substantial fundraising effort highlights the industry’s commitment to celebrating and sustaining Black cultural contributions within the arts.

This commitment to celebrating Black culture finds its vibrant expression in Black dandyism, characterised by meticulously tailored suits, flamboyant cravats, silk waistcoats, and impeccably polished shoes. Originating as a form of rebellion against the racial prejudices of the 18th and 19th centuries, Black dandies appropriated and reinvented European aristocratic dress to assert their dignity, sophistication, and individuality. Often adopting top hats, polished pocket watches, vibrant colours, and detailed patterns, Black dandies used fashion to challenge oppressive narratives that aimed to diminish their presence and power. 

In this tradition stands André Leon Talley, Vogue’s legendary first African-American male creative director, whose legacy permeated the gala. Talley was renowned for his dramatic capes, grand kaftans, and fearless embrace of colour and opulence—elements central to the ethos of Black dandyism. His influence was unmistakable, notably echoed in co-chair Colman Domingo’s ensemble: a royal blue Valentino cape adorned with lavish gold detailing. Domingo’s look seamlessly combined Talley’s grandeur with a contemporary twist, encapsulating the night’s homage to both personal and historical narratives.

The Gala featured striking modern interpretations of Black dandyism. Zendaya channelled Bianca Jagger in a white Louis Vuitton suit, pairing wide-legged trousers with a wide-brimmed hat. Lewis Hamilton embraced his heritage in a Wales Bonner cream suit embellished with cowrie shells. Janelle Monáe’s Thom Browne ensemble, featuring a surrealist bowler hat and pinstripe skirt suit, captured dandyism’s playful defiance. Rihanna, making a profound statement on femininity and motherhood, dazzled in a tailored Marc Jacobs Spencer jacket and bustled skirt.

The looks, narrating deeper truths about identity, heritage, and defiance. At its core, Black dandyism is a powerful cultural dialogue—a vibrant assertion that style is an act of resistance, self-expression, and reclamation. From the sharp suits worn by free Black men in 19th-century America asserting freedom, to the vibrant fashion statements during the civil rights movements symbolising resilience and pride, dandyism continues to stand as a dynamic, enduring force for cultural affirmation.

The record-breaking success of the 2025 Met Gala sends a critical message at a moment when diversity, equity, and inclusion are increasingly under threat. By spotlighting Black dandyism, the event reinforces the importance of supporting cultural institutions dedicated to preserving and celebrating diverse histories. It challenges us to rally together, ensuring that these institutions remain vibrant, relevant, and capable of inspiring future generations.

However, even as we celebrate this significant moment, it’s essential to acknowledge the many other diverse narratives still absent from this spotlight. Indigenous fashion histories, Latinx sartorial traditions, Asian style evolutions, and myriad global cultural influences deserve their own moments of recognition. As we move forward, embracing these missing narratives will enrich our understanding of fashion’s profound ability to articulate identity, resistance, and storytelling on a truly inclusive global stage.